I have a feeling that Cora will be your best beach companion this summer. Light and airy, but still a little something for when that ocean breeze comes in.
The Coastal Cora Wrap features the honeycomb stitch, which creates such an open and flowy texture with an amazing drape. The honeycomb stitch is a lacy crochet stitch with a 4 row repeat. The stitch might seem a little bunch while working the pattern, but the key is to block your work once you’re done. Once you block it, the stitch pattern will magically open up into a fabric with incredible drape.
If you’re new to the honeycomb stitch, feel free to check out my video tutorial for both the honeycomb stitch and the Coastal Cora Wrap Pattern.
If you would like the affordable PDF copy, you can click here to purchase from Etsy or here from Ravelry.
YARN
I used 2 skeins of Sewrella Yarn Classic DK, which is 100% Merino Wool. The finished product is oh-so-soft. You might think that wool would be too warm for a spring and summer crochet accessory like this, but I do not find that to be the case!
My sample is made with the colorway “Catalina”, which is no longer available. However, Sewrella Yarn releases new collections and colorways very often! Check out their website here to see what they have available right now.
Alternatively, you may use 450yds of any DK #3 weight yarn as long as you are able to meet gauge with it.
MATERIALS
- Hook: 5.0mm, or hook needed to meet gauge
- Scissors
- Yarn needle
- Flexible tape measure
- Blocking materials
ABBREVIATIONS
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- tc: treble crochet
- * to *: repeat
NOTES
- Written in US Terms
- The starting ch will determine how long your wrap will be. You can easily change the length by adjusting the starting ch to any multiple of 5+2
GAUGE
4.5″ x 4.5″ square (blocked) = 3 honeycomb gaps x 6.5 honeycomb gaps.
Ch 27. Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc across.
Ch 1 and turn. Following the pattern below, begin with Row 2 and work your way through until you have 17 total rows for the gauge swatch.
Block your square first. Your full swatch will be bigger than 4.5″. Measure your gauge in the middle of the swatch. The honeycomb design should be nice and stretched. When measuring across the stitches, be sure to measure from the start of one honeycomb gap to the start of the other honeycomb gap, to get the full measurement.
The row gauge is not as important to precisely meet as the stitch gauge, due to the nature of the pattern.
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
12” x 60”
START THE PATTERN
Ch 202
Row 1: Starting in the second ch from the hook, sc across.
Row 2: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the first 2 stitches, ch 5, skip 2 stitches. *Sc in the next 3 stitches, ch 5, skip 2 stitches* repeat until there are 2 stitches left. Sc in the last 2 stitches.
Row 3: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the first stitch, skip the next stitch. *5 sc into the ch-space from the previous row, skip a stitch, sc, skip a stitch* repeat until there is one ch-space left. 5 sc into the ch-space, skip a stitch, sc in the last stitch.
To double check your work, you should have 40 “honeycomb gaps” across your row (if you used the same starting ch length as me).
Row 4: Ch 6 and turn. Skip the first 2 stitches, sc in the next 3 stitches. *Ch 5, skip 3 stitches, sc in the next 3 stitches* repeat until there are 2 stitches left. Ch 2 and tc in the last stitch.
Row 5: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the first stitch, 2 sc in the ch-space, skip a stitch, sc, skip a stitch. *5sc into the ch-space, skip a stitch, sc, skip a stitch* repeat until there is one ch-space. 2 sc into the ch-space and sc into the 4th ch up from that ch 6.
Row 6: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the first 2 stitches, ch 5, skip 3 stitches. *Sc in the next 3 stitches, ch 5, skip 3 stitches* repeat until there are 2 stitches left. Sc in the last 2 stitches.
Repeat Rows 3-6 until you have 17 fully formed “honeycomb gaps” going up the rows. This number is a suggestion – you are more than welcome to keep going.
*End on a Row 3 or Row 5 repeat
If you end with an odd number of “honeycomb gap” rows, continue to “Ending Row 1a”. If you end with an even number, go to “Ending Row 1b”.
Ending Row 1a: Ch 1 and turn. Sc2tog, sc in the next 4 stitches, skip a stitch. *Sc in the next 5 stitches, skip a stitch* repeat until there are 6 stitches left. Sc in the next 4 stitches, sc2tog.
Ending Row 1b: Ch 1 and turn. Sc in the next 3 stitches, skip a stitch. *Sc in the next 5 stitches, skip a stitch* repeat until there are 3 stitches left. Sc in the last 3 stitches.
Fasten off and weave in your ends. Now, proceed to blocking your wrap. This will really open up the honeycomb stitch pattern.
How I block:
- Get your crochet work wet by either fully submerging/washing your item or using a spray bottle to mist it.
- Using foam mats, towels, or a rug, lay your work out completely on top so that it lays flat and even.
- Using rust-proof pins, pin your work down to help hold its shape. We want these “honeycomb gaps” to be nice and stretched out.
- Leave your work blocked out until it is dry.
Did you enjoy this post?
I’d love to see your beautiful creation! If you share a photo of your work on social media, be sure to tag me so I can see it! You can also use the hashtags #CoastalCoraWrap and #SassAndStitchCrochet
Do not alter, rewrite, share, or sell this pattern in any way. Do not use my photographs without my consent. You are more than welcome to sell the finished items that you made with this pattern. Please give credit to me in any listing or social media post.
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<3 KAITLIN, SASS & STITCH
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